When I first wanted to know more about what nail drill bits to use, I was admittedly overwhelmed. Knowing your drill bits is important.
You can choose from a variety—but if you don’t know what you are doing you may end up destroying the nails or possibly even hurting your client.
In this post, we will go over some of the beginner bits you will need, from those that are meant to work on natural nails to those that will help you refine and finish acrylic nails.
So, without further ado, read on for nail drill bits explained.
Let’s Start at The Beginning With Nail Drill Bits
Wanting to know everything there is about a topic is tempting, but if you are new to the art of acrylic nails, it’s best to start off slowly and with the basics. The first step is to identify the types of nail drill bits and their uses.
Depending on where you are starting will directly affect which bit you need to start off with. Let’s assume that your current client is coming to you with clean, currently non-acrylic or in other terms, natural nails. In this case, a natural nail bit should be your first choice.
Natural Nail Bit
This bit is to help you prepare the nails; its purpose is to help take the shine off of the nail, to remove the dead cuticle, and to smooth the cuticle area. It is made from a synthetic rubberized soft bit.
A slim piece that is tapered with a flat top, this nail drill bit can also be used on the natural nail. Just as the name suggests, it is used to prep the nail and smooth the edges.
Mandrel Bit and Sanding Bands
The next step requires working with acrylic nails which are placed over the natural nail.
As described by Nails Magazine, sanding bands or arbor bands, are barrel-shaped bands that slip over the mandrel bit. You will want to make sure you have a new band for each person as they cannot be disinfected.
These bands are used to smooth down the acyclic nails or even remove the nails. They come in fine, medium, and/or coarse.
With the fine sanding bands, the acrylic nail will come off slower but the end result will be smoother. For the more coarse bands, the bands will help file the nail to come off quicker but the end result will be rougher.
The medium will have an in-between result.
Keep in mind that these are cheaper than carbide nail drill bits, so, if you are a beginner I highly recommend using these first until you’re more experienced.
Small and Large Barrel
As described in Nails Magazine, these bits are used for surface work, shortening of the nails, and also for backfill cutting.
Carbide Nail Drill Bits
Wellness Products describes these bits as a great tool for more advanced users; they are gold or silver coated. They are used to cut and shape the acrylic nail; they are not to be used on the natural nail. These also come in extra fine, fine, medium, coarse, and extra coarse.
An extra coarse grit is best used for removing the acrylic and gel overlays and can also shorten the nail. A coarse grit is safe to use on sidewall filling and also shaping both the fingernails and the toenails.
A medium grit is a great all-purpose bit and is used to shorten acrylic nails, cut in new smile lines, and can reshape the entire surface.
A fine grit is best used to refine the entire surface and shape of the acrylic or gel nail. In the case where there is some unwanted leftover acrylic, it can help remove it. A fine grit is also useful in “cutting in” the smile line of shorter acrylic or gel nails.
As most carbide nail drill bits are square at the tip, their purpose is to refine the surface of the nail. A tapered version will help you get deeper into the corners and around the sides. The typical size of these bits come in 3/32.
According to Nails Magazine, pressure from the drill bit creates friction and in turn causes heat to build up, and as a result, the client may feel some discomfort. Due to the nature of the ceramic bit, they don’t heat up in the same manner as other bits. They are also long-lasting.
Much in the same way as the carbide nail drill bits, you can purchase them in flute-like cuts with several grids, from fine to coarse. They too can be cleaned and sterilized and therefore have multiple uses.
These bits can be derived from both natural or synthetic means and are the hardest bits available.
They are used to remove the built-up product by scratching it off, but they create more dust and friction compared to the previously mentioned bits, and therefore, more heat. They also won’t rust after being disinfected.
A pedicure bit has a distinct purpose to remove any callus on the feet. As described by Nails Magazine, it is a larger bit, cone-shaped, and has strips of diamond material for cooling. This coating material on the top cylinder also makes it easier to get to difficult spots on the toenail.
Similar to the regular carbide nail drill bit, but the end is not square it is rounded to help eliminate injuring a nail. As described by Nails Magazine, the small head allows the technician to get into the groove walls as well as the cuticle of the natural nail. This bit helps to prepare the artificial nail so that it will fit precisely over the natural nail.
UNC stands for “under the nail cleaner”, it is thin and tapered and allows access to under the acrylic nail. Nails Magazine describes how you can use this bit to gently bevel the undersides without clipping the fingertip. Some nail technicians use it to puncture holes in the acrylic nail to add rings and charms.
Also known as maintenance bits, there are three types to choose: the two-week, the four-week, and the inverted backfill.
The two-week bit, 1/4 of the standard drill bit size, will remove approximately two weeks worth of growth, while the four-week bit, 1/2 of the standard bit size, will remove four weeks worth of growth.
The inverted drill bit is angled so that it is larger on top and is used when the nail technician wants to cut and remove all of the product on the tip.
Check it Out
One of the best ways to fully understand what bits are used for what is to see each of the drill bits explained. The following video is a short presentation that clearly explains some of the basic drill bits you may want for your collection.
Where to Find Your Bits
When starting with the basics, you don’t want to get too many pieces and not know what to do with them all. I suggest starting with a smaller set. You can find them all on Amazon!
What to Remember
Learning all the different types of nail drill bits and their uses can take time. In fact, knowing specifically the work you want to complete will help you determine which bits you need to have in your collection.
For the beginner you may want to start with:
- A natural nail bit
- Mandrel bit with sanding bits
- Carbide nail drill bits
- Safety Bit
- UNC bit
- Backfiller bits
Your collection can increase from this selection if you choose to expand your practice with different materials, shapes, and techniques. Remember that you can purchase any nail bit sets on Amazon, but there is no rush to collect all the different bits out there until you have had some time to practice first and gain some experience.
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